How do you know what your nose likes?
Some fragrances smell very flowery; others smell fruity or woody. Chanel No. 5, one of the world’s most famous fragrances, includes various flower scents, along with lemon and vanilla. To create a scent, perfumers use different oils and chemicals, and mix the ingredients together. But first, they need to experiment, to figure out the correct amount of each ingredient. Perfumers may do hundreds of tests to develop a new fragrance. This process of trial and error can take weeks, months, or even years! Francois Demachy, the «nose» of Christian Dior, mixes and matches over 2,000 types of scents. «Making a fragrance is like cooking,» he says.
It isn’t easy to become a nose. To start, you need to be good at chemistry. You also need five to ten years of training. Some large fragrance companies run their own perfumery schools. «Noses in training» learn to identify hundreds of individual smells. They also do professional apprenticeships, with more experienced perfumers, to learn blending and other tricks of the trade. It also helps for perfumers to learn about business, so they can market their own original scents.
After finishing her perfumery studies in 1981, well-known nose Patricia de Nicolai hoped to join her family’s fragrance company, Guerlain. But back then, there were very few women perfumers, and Guerlain wouldn’t hire her. De Nicolai eventually launched her own brand, Nicolai, which became very successful. «I was a bit of a pioneer,» says de Nicolai. Today, her brand has stores around the world.
Humans have been using perfume for thousands of years. Demachy and de Nicolai are part of a long tradition of professional perfumers, developing fragrances that make life smell a little sweeter.
5 Phrasal Verbs to Master
To pen down
To brush up
To scamper into
To come up with
To get into
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